By Blake Mead

What motivates your dog? You must know this to successfully train your dog to be a flyball dog.

Is what motivates your dog a treat? If so, what kind? Is it a toy? If so, which one? Maybe it's a game of tug o' war or a wrestling match. Whatever it is, you must use what motivates your dog as the treat that awaits your dog after each new learned behavior.

It's also very important that your dog knows what the reward is. The treat, or the toy, or the game must be there each and every time for your dog. The treat is the target. If you train without a target, your dog will not be focused. Training will not be effective and your dog will be unmotivated.

Your dog needs the treat as a target to focus on during each stage of training.

In the beginning, when your dog is learning the basics, a treat must be waiting after each behavior in the chain. Your dog needs to have a reason to perform each behavior. That reason is the treat.

Once your dog has learned all the behaviors in the chain and can successfully run the course and bring the ball to you, then one treat after running the course is enough. That one treat will be the focus for your dog to run the entire sequence and bring you the ball.

When both you and your dog know what the treat is and it's always there waiting, then your dog knows why he's there. That's his motivation.

Listen to your dog! Go to http://www.fly-ball.com for more info on flyball training and equipment.

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Labels: Dog Training

By Kelly Marshall

Dogs get sick from parasites, viruses, bacteria, protozoa, and fungus. In some cases, these diseases and infestations are fatal unless caught early and treated. Sometimes they sow the seeds of death or debilitation years down the road by causing chronic illness or damaging organs.

The term "chronic kidney failure" suggests that the kidneys have quit working and are, therefore, not making urine. The typical form of chronic kidney failure is the result of aging; it is simply a "wearing out" process. The age of onset is related to the size of the dog. For most small dogs, the early signs occur at about 8-14 years of age. Large dogs have a shorter age span and may go into kidney failure as early as seven years of age.

Causes of acute kidney disease

• Trauma - Any type of trauma that causes the blood pressure to fall dramatically, such as shock and blood loss from being hit by a car.

• Disease - Leptospirosis (a type of bacteria), fungal infections, heart disease

• Poison - Ingestion of antifreeze or rat poison

• Medications - Certain antibiotics and chemotherapy drugs

When aging causes the filtration process to become inefficient and ineffective, blood flow to the kidneys is increased in an attempt to increase filtration. The clinical signs of more advanced kidney failure include loss of appetite, depression, vomiting, diarrhea, and very bad breath.

The diagnosis of kidney failure is made by determining the level of two waste products in the blood: blood urea nitrogen (BUN) and blood creatinine. The urinalysis is also needed to complete the study of kidney function.

In some cases, the kidneys are worn out so that they cannot be revived. However, with aggressive treatment many dogs will live for several more months or years.

Treatments - Treatments for acute kidney disease focus primarily on treating the underlying cause first. Other therapies may include: IV fluids - Helps to remove toxins from the body

Temporary dialysis:

If treating the underlying cause and IV fluids aren't enough, temporary dialysis may be used to eliminate toxins from the body, giving the dog's kidneys a chance to heal. For peritoneal dialysis, fluid is injected into the belly and later drawn back out to help remove toxins. In hemodialysis, a machine is used to filter the toxins from the bloodstream. Hemodialysis is quite expensive and not all veterinary facilities are equipped to provide this treatment.

To get help with your dog and any health issues, contact your local veterinarian. He or she can often recommend treatments, care tips and even books for further learning on the subject. Health books for dogs are also available in local pet stores as well as online at popular websites like Amazon and Ebay. Simply search keywords phrases in their individual search engines like, "dog diseases" or "dog healthcare" and then review listings that turn up. Also search top search engines like Google and Yahoo in a similar manner for websites and other resources.

Article by Kelly Marshall from Oh My Dog Supplies - the top place to buy dog beds online

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Labels: Dog Disease

By Kelly Marshall

The gameplan of the mite is to burrow 3-5 layers deep and attack the hair follicles. Dogs with demodetic mites will experience major hair loss and lowered immune systems. The microscopic mange mite usually shows up in all puppies, but mostly puppies from 6 weeks to over one year of age.

The minute eight legged bloodsuckers will appear in the pores causing localized infestation in the beginning (if left untreated, these areas can quickly become "generalized" making it a far more serious condition to treat). Veterinarian and medical treatments are very costly and take months to treat with poisons and insecticides.

With Demodetic mange, there is usually a characteristic smell - sort of a "wet puppy dog" smell. Veterinarians can usually diagnose demodex just by looking, although a skin scraping will give a more definite diagnosis. The itch, although not quite as severe as that caused by the toxins from sarcastic mites, can be intense (or there can be no itching at all), and many times demodex can cause severe secondary bacterial infections, not only from the infected pores, but from the abused skin from the dog scratching itself.

Unlike the mites that bite and live off the blood of the dog, the mites that cause demodex don't bite and they don't consume blood from the animal. They live in skin pores and hair follicles and literally feed on the skin and hair oil they find there.

Mites are similar in appearance to Narcotic Mange mites. Notoedres cati is the primary cause of mange in cats. It will also infect dogs, but will not live a full life cycle on humans, but will cause itching and possible rash. Also known as 'face mange', the infection usually begins at the tips of the ears, progresses over the face and, if untreated, over the body. If your cat suffers from severe itching or hair loss on the head and neck you should consider having her examined for the neoteric mange mite.

The female mite burrows into the skin and lays eggs several times as she continues burrowing. These tunnels can actually reach the length of several centimeters. After she deposits the eggs, the female mite dies. In 3-8 days the eggs hatch into larvae, which have 6 legs. The larvae mature into nymphs, which have 8 legs. The nymph then molts into an adult while it is still in the burrow. The adult's mate, and the process continue. The entire life cycle requires 2-3 weeks.

The symptoms usually start with hair loss and itching on the ears spreading rapidly to the face, eyelids and neck. The mites can also spread to the feet and lower abdomen. This characteristic spread probably occurs from the cat's habit of grooming, and sleeping curled up in a ball. As the disease progresses the skin will become thickened, wrinkled and covered with grayish/yellow crusts. Because of the intense itching the infected cat will often scratch and irritate the skin causing secondary infections to develop. The surrounding lymph nodes may also become enlarged as the problem worsens.

Authored by Kelly Marshall from Oh My Dog Supplies - the place to go for dog steps in all shapes and sizes

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Labels: Dog Breeding

By Kelly Marshall

The highest incidence of dominance aggression occurs in intact males, followed, in decreasing order of frequency, by castrated males, spayed females and unsprayed females. English Springer spaniels, Lhaso apsos, cocker spaniels, Doberman pinschers, and toy poodle and terrier breeds have been reported to have a higher incidence of this type of aggression, but it can occur in any breed of dog.

Dogs may become aggressive towards their owners if they perceive that their dominance is being challenged or that there is a threat to a "critical resource" such as food, a resting place, a prized object, a favored person, or anything else that is important to them. Owners seek professional advice about dominance aggression more often than about any other type of canine aggression. The intensity of dominance aggression ranges from mild to severe. Dominance aggression develops around the time a dog reaches social maturity, which is about two years of age. Treatment involves life-long management using a combination of therapeutic techniques.

Dominance aggression has its roots in the social organization of wolves, the closest wild relatives of domestic dogs. Wolves live in social groups called packs. Within the pack there is a social hierarchy in which each individual animal knows its rank in relation to every other animal. The dominant individuals have a priority to the critical resources of food, water, and resting places. Dynamic, rather than rigid, the hierarchy is maintained through a complex communication system using signals of dominance and submission; thus, the social relationships within a pack of wolves are quite complex. One of the functions of the hierarchy is to reduce aggression within the pack. When the hierarchy is stable, overt aggression is minimized. Presumably, domestic dogs manifest dominance aggression when they perceive that the hierarchy within the household is unstable.

Important step in diagnosis requires looking at the components of the animal's behavior while it is acting aggressively. Dogs exhibiting dominance aggression often, but not always, assume a dominant posture, such as an erect or stiff body position, with erect ears and tail, raised hackles, and a direct stare. Depending on the intensity of the aggressive display, there can be snarling, growling, lunging, snapping, and biting. However, a significant number of dogs with dominance aggression do not exhibit this classical dominance posture and instead, some may exhibit a fear posture or, more commonly, a posture that includes varying degrees of both dominance and fear.

The intensity of dominance aggression ranges from mild to severe. Dominance aggression develops around the time a dog reaches social maturity, which is about two years of age. Treatment involves life-long management using a combination of therapeutic techniques. This behavioral problem, which is common among canines, can pose a safety threat to humans. Children that live in households with dogs that have dominance aggression are at greatest risk for serious or fatal injury.

Article by Kelly Marshall from Oh My Dog Supplies - where you can find designer dog bowls to match any decor

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Labels: Dog Training

By Kelly Marshall

Three and a half million unwanted dogs are put to death in this country every year, with millions more dying through starvation, disease, accidents, and abuse. Nearly a quarter of these victims are purebred dogs. It is important to learn the facts and possible consequences if you are considering breeding your dog. In today's overcrowded world, we must make responsible decisions for our pets and for ourselves. Consider the following points carefully.

Just like humans, dogs are different depending on age, breed, overall health, severity of infestation and activity level. If you are not sure what is the best recipe for your dog, please email me and include: age, weight and breed of your dog, when diagnosed and how severe of a case your dog has, list all symptoms, tell me about your pet's health in general and list all vitamins/medications/herbs your dog is taking and what brand of food you are feeding. This site is not meant to diagnose or prescribe, information provided is a general guideline - for a dog with a mild to moderate case, which is in good health.

Know the typical genetic diseases for your breed. Test for them, and do not breed a dog that may pass on serious genetic disease. Do not let your love for your dog make you blind to your obligation to others. Your dog may be healthy, but may still pass on serious genetic disease. Do what you can to avoid causing heartache. Do not breed your dog if you have no information on the health and fitness of both the parents of your dog, and its prospective mate. You need more than a single generation to make a good decision.

When a dog refuses to eat or eats only a portion of the dog food he needs or what he usually eats every day will produce an imbalance in his dog nutrition. The term Anorexia is used to describe the condition when a dog refuses to eat. A dog's eating habits are normally controlled by hunger. Another thing that causes a disturbance of the dog's natural eating behavior is mechanical interruption.

It is becoming increasingly difficult for the average consumer to tell which one is the best for their pet; In particular any allergies that your dog may have. While others have a sensitivity to lamb. Through a process of trial and error you can usually find a dog food that your pet will eat. Dog owners are faced with a difficult choice when comes to the right food for their dog. Others will take the opposite view and see no reason to spend extra on a premium brand dog food. Of course we are not just talking about canned dog food. Juicy food contained in a can but it is important for them to also to chew on hard crunchy dog food such as dry kibble and dog biscuits.

Article written by Kelly Marshall from Oh My Dog Supplies - visit for dog food storage containers in every size

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Labels: Dog Food

By Kelly Marshall

Vitamins can improve the quality of your pet's life. They help regulate body processes, protect the body from environmental toxins, and break down nutrients such as carbohydrates, proteins, and fats so the body can utilize them.

Here are noteworthy points about vitamins for dogs:

1) Vitamins work with minerals and enzymes for digestion, reproduction, muscle and bone growth, and maintenance of healthy skin and hair coat.

2) All multi-vitamins for pets are not created equal.

3) Vitamins are necessary for literally tens of thousands of different chemical reactions in the body.

4) They often work in conjunction with minerals and enzymes to ensure normal digestion, reproduction, muscle and bone growth and function, healthy skin and hair, clotting of blood, and the use of fats, proteins, and carbohydrates by the body.

5) Their unique set of nutritional requirements has been passed on from generation to generation just like the breed's unique coat, body size and temperament.

We have found that we cannot change the genetic makeup of the animals we are feeding just by exposing them to a different diet for a small amount of time. Therefore, I suggest that Burmese mountain dog owners try to feed their present companion pets with foods that contain what this breed requires. The food should contain: nutrient sources that are similar to those found in the native environment of the breed's ancestors (sources which are not foreign to the digestive and glandular systems of today's Burmese Mountain Dog and which are easy for them to assimilate) and the proper balance of protein, carbohydrates, fatty acids, vitamins and minerals that match the breed specific nutritional requirements - those which have been passed on by their ancestors.

There are over 170 different molecular forms of the mineral "calcium." The source of the mineral calcium that a Burmese Mountain Dog can easily assimilate can be hard for a different breed to assimilate and thus that other breed can develop kidney stones on the best source of calcium for a Burmese Mountain Dog. The reverse of this is also true. Below you will find a list of the best sources of vitamins and minerals for the dietary requirements of a Burmese Mountain Dog.

The balance or amounts are not listed because each individual animal can have different requirements depending on: the sex of the animal; the age (a puppy will have different needs than an adolescent, who even though it may be the same size as an adult will have different requirements than an adult); the activity level (if a dog is very active the dog will need more of the B complex than a couch potato of the same breed); stress levels; medical conditions; and other dietary factors (i.e. does the water supply contain high amounts of minerals). There are many factors come into play when considering the proper amount of each nutrient in an individual dogs diet.

To learn more about your dog and the best dietary needs for it, you can visit your local pet store for books on health topics and see what type of clinics are available for your enrichment. Also check with your local Human Society chapter similarly. They often host workshops all around your area and can mail or email you a calendar of upcoming events.

Article by Kelly Marshall from Oh My Dog Supplies - to find designer dog beds, visit http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com/dog-supplies/dog-beds/

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Labels: Dog Vitamin

By Kelly Marshall

The first kind of 'ticks' that you would hate!

Generally, we love ticks, especially, as a child. What a feeling we had, when we got them on our Math papers! But beware! These are some fatal ones!

Are you enjoying a walk with your dog, especially, in a shrubby area, full of grass and bushes? If yes, better take care. Ticks will lie in the grass and bushes sometimes climbing higher for a better chance of making contact. They can detect vibrations of an animal walking through and are also able to use their modified scent to detect the carbon dioxide and odors of a mammal's breath. Once detected, they will just jump on you.

Ticks on dogs and puppies are unsightly, painful, and sometimes very dangerous. These blood sucking insects feed on all vertebrates but are particularly kin to dogs and cats as they tend to enjoy the same places your pets do. And they can expand 20 to 100 times its size as it feeds. And the scariest thing about them is the fact that ticks can go unnoticed. Tiny as they are, they can attach themselves to you or your dog without being seen or felt. If your dog has a light coat, then you are just as lucky, for you will notice the ticks quickly. But, if your dog has a dark coat, ticks will often continue to go unnoticed until they're well engorged with blood.

Then how do you check for them? You'll certainly feel them by running your fingers or a fine toothed comb or a flea comb through your dog's coat. Check your dog all over, but especially around the head and neck, ears and paws. In most ticks, it can take 12 - 24 hours from the time it attaches itself to regurgitate the bacteria back into the host.

What can ticks do your pet? They can spread Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever, making them potentially lethal. Also, too many ticks feeding on a single dog can cause severe anemia or a condition called tick paralysis.

Alright, then how do you control and prevent ticks? This is especially important in avoiding diseases associated with them. To prevent tick exposure, use a flea and tick spray before taking your dog into thick, shrubby area. Also keep your grass and plants well trimmed. This decreases the amount of ticks you and your dog may run into. If you are living in a tick-populated area, then your vet may suggest your dog be vaccinated against ticks. Always make sure ticks you find and remove are dead before you dispose of them. A good way to kill them is to stomp the life out of them. Most importantly, keep a close eye on your dog for the next few days to make sure he or she doesn't get sick!

To remove ticks off your dog, use tweezers, not your fingers, petroleum jelly or a match. Simply place the tweezers level with the skin, squeeze, and then rock it with a firm grip while pulling straight up. Be sure not to compress the belly of the tick as you could facilitate a regurgitation of its contents which could spell a disease. After all, your diligence in finding and removing ticks before they attach is the best preventive measure of all.

So, do enjoy a walk with your dog. But avoid wooded areas, tall grass, and damp areas!

Provided by Kelly Marshall from Oh My Dog Supplies - the largest choice of dog feeders online, visit http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com/dog-supplies/elevated-dog-feeders/

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Labels: Dog Problem

By David Whitby

Every owner wants to give training to his dog. But it is not as simple as it looks like. To train a dog, one should have a great patient and knowledge about how to train a dog.

Normally you can see that puppies are habitual of biting and grabbing each other by their mouths. The very first thing you have to teach your dog is that human skin is more sensitive than a puppies or a doggie skin and his habit of biting hurts you. Although a puppy biting is not so harmful but a adult can cause a severe damage when it bites. For this, what you have to do is that whenever your puppy tries to touch you with its teeth, in harsh tone say “OUCH”. It will show to your puppy that it will hurt you. Also you have to teach your puppy that “OFF” means not to touch. For this every time when you give meals to your puppy, do the following process for at least 5 minutes:

Hold some dry food in your hand, say “Take it” with love and give a piece of food to your puppy. In the mean time hide rest of the food in your hand and say “Off” with a lovely voice. If your puppy has not touched your hand for next 5 seconds then say “Take it” and give him a piece of food again. Do like this daily for 5 to 10 minutes. It will also help to stop your dog from mouthing.

The most important thing you should do to civilize your dog is:

1. Always REWARD your dog whenever it will do something, which you expect from him. By doing this the result is that your dog will continue to do that thing.

2. Never REWARD it for what you don’t want from it to do.

But always remember that a reward for a dog is different from the reward for a person. As a reward, give it something what it likes. For example: Freedom, Food, Ball, which your dog likes most.

Sometimes punishment is also necessary, but it should be very rare. Punishment should be given to it only for “Anti-Social” behavior. As a punishment you can hit your dog or do something what the dog doesn’t like. For example: ignore it for some time etc. This will help you to train your dog very much. Dogs like to listen their name in your talks. So use its name when you want to call it. Or if you want to give it snacks or food, use your dog’s name instead of saying “Snacks” etc. It will also help you to call it back.

You should give around one hour to train your dog. It should be five to ten minutes at a time and two to three times per day. So that it will be habitual of those things which you want to teach your dog

Mydogspics provides information on different types of dog breeds, pictures of dogs, blogs, latest dog news, discussion forums, classifieds etc. For more information, write back to us at articles@mydogspics.com

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Labels: Dog Training

By Bill Carr

Should you be concerned about your dog or cats health these days? With all the dog and cat food companies that are recalling there food, for poisonings, you most likely should be. As a pet owner now there are limited products for your loved pets.

But there is a solution to this problem, why not cook or bake for your cats and dogs. At least you know what your putting in there pet food, and not to mention your cat and dog will enjoy there new found pet food much better than that old canned byproduct anyway.

With limited choices of what to feed your pets, more and more pet owners are feeding them table food and dinner scrapes. It is important to keep your pet healthy with a balanced meal, with the right nutrients, minerals, vitamins, and proteins for your type of cat or dog.

It's really not that hard to prepare meals and treats for your pets: There are many different recipes you can prepare for them that are healthy and good for them. Just put aside a little time each week to make your dog or cat treats, and you will be able to give them there treats for the week and the same goes for there meals, except you might have to prepare them a little more often, maybe two or three times a week just to keep it fresh. But you can prepare one batch for the whole week and freeze half of it in your freezer, provided you have the space, or if you have a kitchen vacuum sealer for moist food, dry food you can just save in a container.

Article by Bill Carr

Safe Pet Food Recipes http://www.petfoodrecipessite.com

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Labels: Dog Food

By Kirsten Frisch

Have you ever thought about adopting an older dog?

You know, sometimes it just might be the perfect dog. What about all those illnesses old dogs have? And old dog might have some issues, but usually not any more than a young puppy. If you add up the cost of veterinary visits for a young puppy and the cost of an older dog, it is almost the same. Puppies require training, toys, crates, tons of exercise (that is a time factor), and veterinary visits for shots and spaying or neutering.

An old dog will need some medical attention, of course, but most likely he will have some training, he may or may not need a crate, and he will want a bone to chew on. Most importantly, he needs your love. He will want to go on walks, but he may be just as happy hanging out while you, ahem...surf the web.

Lets get serious about time. If you are the average person in the average family, you work over 60 hours a week. If you have children, you spend almost all your time shuffling them from one event to the next, helping with homework, or curing a cough. When you do have free time, you might just want some "me" time. An old dog will be happy to give you your space.

Where does a puppy fit into all this? Often, they don't. Do you really have 2 hours a day to dedicate to exercising and training a puppy? Because that is the minimum requirement. And they have to be supervised ALL THE TIME. When you don't supervise a puppy they get into all sorts of trouble.

You might think you can solve all that trouble with crate training, but have you really considered how much time a puppy can spend in a crate? 8 hours? 10 hours? 12 hours? The more time a puppy spends in a crate the better his chances for becoming destructive. After all, you have to put that puppy energy somewhere.

Old dogs like to play, there is no question about that. And many old dogs grew up in families with children, other dogs, and even cats. They aren't any more fragile than a puppy. They even try to keep up with the younger generation. Unfortunately, even if those old joints keep up with the younger generation, they will probably spend the next couple of days recovering. So let them play, and then let them recover.

Finally, the sad truth about commitment. Have you thought about the length of commitment you are taking on with a puppy? 12 years? 15 years? Hopefully longer. Do you know where you will be in 15 years? Unfortunately, there are many old dogs in shelters whose owners didn't know where they would be in 15 years. They took on a puppy, but could only give them 10 years. What's an old guy to do? He worked hard for his retirement, but after 10 years the company fired him.

Consider adopting an old dog. It just might be the perfect pet.

Kirsten Frisch has worked with sled dogs for over 10 years. She has handled dogs in Alaska for mid and long distance races such as the Copper Basin 300 and Yukon Quest 1000 mile race. Her background also includes Veterinary Technician, sled dog rescue and foster, dog trainer, and webmaster. You can learn more about Kirsten dogs at http://www.alaskan-husky-behavior.com and http://www.new-dog-owner.com

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Labels: Dog Adoption

By Charley Hwang

Are vitamin and mineral supplements that necessary for your pregnant dog? Yes. Besides a balanced and healthy diet, pregnant dogs that are into their fourth week of pregnancy need more vitamins and minerals in their system. Also, a balanced di-calcium phosphate may be needed to be added into their diet as well.

“Where should I purchase these dog supplements?”

Di-calcium phosphate tablets and vitamin/mineral supplements can be obtained from most veterinarians or animal hospitals, and even some grocery stores. Health food stores are common to carry these types of animal supplements as well, so you should not have too many problems trying to locate some for your dog.

“What forms do these prenatal supplements come in?”

Just like what is supplied for humans, vitamins and minerals for prenatal dogs are sold in both powder and tablet forms. A lot of dog owners get bothered over choosing the right kind of supplements for their dogs, but it is an individual choice for you and your dog. Regardless if its form, the quality of both types of supplements is the same.

“How do I know what dosage of supplement to administer to my pregnant dog?”

You will find the correct supplement for your dog by looking at the labels of the supplements. The correct supplement for your pregnant dog will be stated clearly, and there are supplements for matrons as well as puppies. It is very important that you realize that prenatal dog supplements have gone through lab testing before they are approved to be marketed and sold in stores. There will also be specific instructions on the labels on how to give the supplements to your dog regarding the dosages or stages of pregnancy.

Your dog may not be used to swallowing tablets, or the tablet may be too big for a dog its size. What you can do is crush the tablet up into powder form and then putting it into your dog’s food for it to consume. If your dog has no problems with swallowing tablets, like my Chihuahua for instance, who swallows tablets easily when I place it at the back of his throat, you may want to choose that. But powder form supplements is also a good choice if that is what your dog is better at ingesting. See below for more information on Vitamins for Dogs.

For more information on Supplements For Pregnant Dogs or visit http://www.puppydogobedience.com/dog-pregnancy-3-common-questions-regarding-vitamin-mineral-supplementation/, a popular website that offers information on Dogs, Dog Training, and Dog Breeds. Please leave the links intact if you wish to reprint this article. Thanks

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Labels: Dog Health

By Cynthia Alexander

Purebred dogs are all the rage. For many people who are looking to purchase a purebred dog, they do a dog breeder search in order to buy it. Before you rush out and plop down several hundred dollars for your pure breed pup, there are a few things that are important to know. It is very important to educate yourself BEFORE you buy your puppy from a breeder.

You can find breeders by searching the newspaper or using the Internet, and a number of different places. But what do you really know about the breeder? Some breeders are nothing more than "puppy mills" or farms. Since you don't have to be licensed to be a breeder, the backyard breeder - the dog owner who decides to raise puppies for sale as an income generally has little knowledge – or do they bother to understand – the genetics of the breed or proper nutritional requirements to keep the dog healthy. And it's not uncommon for puppies that come from unlicensed breeders to be sickly and harboring diseases. And puppy mill puppies frequently turn up in pet stores.

Ironically, pet stores are the WORST place to buy a dog. These dogs come from puppy farms where they are often abused, neglected and inbred. Dogs from pet stores are many times nearly impossible to train, prone to illness and disease, prone to behavioral problems like compulsive chewing or barking, as well as being almost impossible to crate train.

Believe it or not, practically any breed that you could want to purchase is available in your local area. Purebred dogs are increasingly found at your local animal shelter. And there are breed specific rescue organizations. Of course most of these dogs are no longer young puppies because people turn them in once the fad has worn off - generally that happens around 6 months to one year from the time they got the pup.

If you are insistant on getting a puppy, the safest route is to find a dog breeder who is licensed. Some of the best options for finding a professional dog breeder would be to attend local dog shows, visit pet supply stores, pet expos or ask a veterinarian for recommendations. However you still need to do your own homework.

Ask lots of questions about the dog you're getting, expect the breeder to ask you questions about yourself and your lifestyle as well. If they don't, be cautious. Good breeders don't want their dogs to end up in homes where the potential owner doesn't have time for the dog or doesn't understand the work involved in raising one. A store clerk or amateur breeder who simply hands you a dog in exchange for your money is not doing you any favors.

Many people buy their puppies over the Internet via some sort of dog breeder directory, but it is highly recommended that you buy from a breeder that you can visit. You can never be 100% sure of what you're getting over the Net. You need to be able to see the facility where the dogs are being bred. Is it clean, is the breeder a caring person, do the mothers look healthy, do the puppies have room to play? These are just a few things you'll need to see with your own eyes. And the answers to these questions will determine whether or not you buy your puppy from that breeder. Don't neglect this vital step. It could mean the difference between getting a healthy pup and a pup that may have eventually have problems.

Did you know that barking is one of the major reasons that people end up losing their dog? Discover how to get your dog to stop barking once and for all. Read Cynthia Alexander's "Ultimate Guide to Stop Your Dog from Barking…FAST."

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Labels: Dog Breeding

By Blue Dawg

Training your dog can be frustrating and overwhelming at first, but do not get discouraged. Remember you are the trainer and the dog is the trainee. There are some simple rules to follow that will help you get the training done and without the major problems. Remember to keep a level head, stay consistent and reward your dog for doing well. We will discuss these three basics in the following paragraphs.

In the daily lives of dogs the routine is everything as they are creatures of habit. They know when you are coming home and wait for you or they know when it time to eat. If you miss a feeding some dogs will bring you the empty food bowl or do something to alert you that something is wrong. New dog trainers can use this knowledge to their advantage and make their job easier. Dog training must involve repetition of actions as repetition becomes habit or routine. Having your dog respond with a certain action when you give a command is the goal you are trying to reach. To make use of dogs being creatures of habit, be sure to be consistent with your commands. Teach your commands the same way every time and keep at it until the dog responds the same way ever time before you move on to a new command. Consistency is the first basic of training a dog and will help you achieve what you want from your dog.

A very hard point in training is keeping a level head. When you have had a long day and you are tired it is very frustrating when the dog does not comply with your command and you become angry. This is the time when some dog owners say that the dog just can’t be trained or I am not good enough to train my dog. If this happens to you then don’t give up but wait until another time when you are more rested and can have more patience with your training. Keep in mind that your dog will not be trained in one day and that taking your time and having patience will get the job done in the end. Keeping a level head is a basic you don’t want to overlook.

A very important part of training your dog is giving a reward for following your commands. The reward part of training will help build a relationship between you and your dog. Now you don’t want to give your dog a treat or food on every command because this is unhealthy for the dog and will build a habit in the dog that you don’t want. When you are training, give the dog a “Good Boy” or “Good Girl” if they follow your command and remember to be consistent. You could even let the dog play with a favorite toy for doing well and you will always want to show affection for your dog. The reward you give will build a relationship and make other training much easier.

What you need to remember is consistency, patience and rewards as a way to start training your dog with success.

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Labels: Dog Training

By Andrew Strachan

If you are the owner of a dog, it is more than likely at some point that you will want to train a bad habit or annoying behavioral trait out of your dog. Nobody likes having their shoes chewed to bits, or the dog urinating over the floor when it feels so inclined.

Before you can start to train your dog, it is imperative that you have some insight into dog psychology and how a dog thinks. Without some insight into dog psychology, your training efforts will be wasted.

Dog psychology is mainly centered on one main area - The Pack. By this we mean that as wild animals, dogs will live together in groups known as 'Packs'. Within this pack there will be young pups, teenaged dogs and adults. Sometimes you may even find quite old dogs in a pack where the hunting is easy.

Now this is the key point. Within every dog pack, there will be a 'top dog' known as the 'alpha male'. There will also be an alpha female who will be the top female dog in the pack. This is where you can take advantage of the psychology of dogs when related to training your dog. If you can position yourself as the alpha male, your training and teachings will sink in far quicker than if your dog had little to no respect for you.

The trick is to ensure that within your family unit, all members of your family are classed as higher members in the pack with you as the Alpha Male (even if you are not male of course). This ensures that if you have children, the dog will listen to them as well. The dog will see them as a higher authority. Sometimes if the dog is older and the children quite young, they will form more of an 'Equal' relationship than 'Pack leader' relationship. This is O.K. as long as the dog respects them. This will prevent the dog from biting at the children or behaving in a threatening manner.

Dog psychologists differ in opinion about how to maintain the Alpha role but there are a few proven methods.

Never feed your dog at or near your dining area. Your dog should always eat in its own separate area. Also do not allow your dog onto the bed as this elevates the dog to your height and in some dogs can give the impression that you are behaving submissively.

Also if your dog is misbehaving, a strong firm vocal 'NO!' will show the dog who is boss. If the behavior persists, a physical (but not over forceful) chastisement may be required. This is what happens in the wild. The alpha male will snarl or growl at subordinates. If this fails to work, the alpha male will often bite or 'rough up' the subordinate dog, reminding it who is boss.

It is important to realize that dogs can very easily fall into bad habits. The reason for this is that they react far more readily to a 'stimulus - response' situation and will retain that association for a long time, whereas humans can overcome these associations by rationalizing them.

For example, if you shout 'Walkies' every time you take your dog out for a walk it, will not be very long before your dog has associated the term 'Walkies' with the 'treat' of going for a walk. Now, if you shout 'Walkies' and then DO NOT take your dog for a walk, this won't prevent the dog getting just as excited the next time you shout it.

Another important aspect of dog psychology is the inability of a dog to associate two events separated by a long time interval. You need to know this when you are training your dog. If your dog urinates on the floor and you don't reprimand your dog until two hours later, your dog is not going to know what it is being reprimanded for! Your dog will NEVER associate the urinating earlier in the day with the punishment later on.

It is vital that you understand HOW your dog thinks before you can begin training. If your dog is taught incorrectly, it will take a long time to undo those mistakes.

Article by Andrew Strachan. Find out more about dog behavior training and types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com

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Labels: Dog Psychology

By Barbara K

Teaching a dog to sit is easily accomplished if you follow a few simple rules and as my own personal experience shows, it can be embarrassing if you don't!

When I was young we had a beautiful, loving and overly boisterous golden labrador called Jackie. Because Mom and Dad had not taught him how to “sit”, he was always jumping up to greet people. One day a man arrived at our house to see Dad on business and as soon as Jackie saw him he just sort of pounced on him and ended up getting his claws caught in the man's zipper of his pants. Ouch! My red-faced Mom spent the next few minutes trying to extract Jackie from his pants while apologising profusely at the same time. Although looking back it was funny, for Dad it wasn't. The end result – the poor man couldn't wait to get out of the house so Dad didn't get the business, but he vowed from that moment on Jackie would be trained properly and set about doing it.

So how do you teach your dog to sit?

No distractions

For anyone starting out to teach a dog to sit you need to be in a room on your own with your dog. Grab a few doggy treats and ask your children or partner to give you a few minutes alone, about ten should be enough. If you don't, your dog will become easily distracted by their presence and you'll get nowhere. Remember that a dogs attention span is very short so its better if you repeat what you are trying to teach them later on in the day but again only for short periods of time.

Praise and reward

With the dog in front of you move one of your hands holding a treat over your dogs nose and slowly move it above his head. His nose would have picked up the smell of his treat so he'll know what you are holding. This action of moving the treat above his head should make his nose and eyes follow the scent and he should sit down as a result. If he doesn't a gentle push on his backside should give him the idea. As soon as he is sitting give him lots of praise and the reward. Repeat this a few times and he should be getting the idea of what you want him to do.

“Sit”

Now you can bring the command into the equation. Again use the action as before but this time speak a firm “sit” while you are moving your hand. He will begin to associate the command with the action you want him to do but again repetition is the key to his understanding. Always follow with lots of praise and of course give him his expected treat.

Phase out the treat

With patience on your part and constant repetition of the technique you will be able to get to the point where he will sit on command without receiving a treat at the end. So try it, phase out the treat and give lots more praise instead when he sits for you.

Daily routine

Once the treat has been phased out you can bring in the “sit” command into your general day to day routine. Get your dog to “sit” before he receives his dinner or before you give him his ball or any other toy. Other family members can take part now to reinforce the command so that he understands that the result of the command is expected of him no matter who asks it.

So teaching your dog to sit is achieved quite easily by the use of constant repetition. Ultimately your dog should be able to sit on command whenever he is asked, wherever he is and with whoever is around. By using the technique shown here there is every reason to believe that he will. With your patience and understanding you will be rewarded with a dog that will be a joy to behold and a delightful companion to boot and not the least bit embarrassing.

If you need help in trying to train your dog, come along to http://www.easy-dog-obedience-training.com where you'll find techniques that are certain to stop your dog's bad behavior.

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Labels: Dog Training

By Lee Dobbins

Dog clothing is growing in popularity and is great for keeping your furry friend warm and safe. Pomeranian clothes can help you Pom look cool while protecting him from bad weather. Dressing your Pomeranian in practical but stylish attire can be fun as well as practical.

Protecting your dog from the bitter cold is one practical reason for dog clothing. Although your Pomeranian does have a thick coat to protect him, he is sure to appreciate an additional layer against the cold. Your pet is sure to appreciate the extra warmth a dog coat or sweater can provide. If you are taking your Pom for a long walk, you might consider a thick coat, but a quick trip out to do his business may only require a sweater.

You can buy all different kinds of clothes for your Pomeranian. Everything from party clothes, to tuxedos, to raincoats to boots can be found. For girl Poms, you might try a pink sweater with fur on the edges or maybe a Harley Davidson jacket for a boy. Many dogs don't mind being dressed up and appreciate the extra protection. You want to go slowly the first time you put a piece of clothing on our Pomeranian as they will not be used to it, but after a fashion it won't bother them at all. For safety sake, make sure to pick clothes that don't have loose strings that could get wrapped around his neck or legs and no embillishements he could chew off. It's better to spend more on quality clothes that are safe for your dog.

Most Pomeranian clothes manufacturers keep safety in mind when designing outfits. Many coats have a reflective piece for safety when walking. To keep your Pomeranians paws clean, you can buy boots for dogs that will also give him comfort on cold and rainy days You can get rain slickers for dogs too, and hats to protect them from the fierce rays of the sun. If your Pomeranian like to romp in the woods, a coat will also help keep burrs off his fur and save you the trouble of having to try to get them out.. When choosing a coat, one that has a nylon shell as well as a fleece lining will help keep your pet snug and dry.

If you are dressing your Pomeranian, you need to make sure the clothing is a good fit, not too loose or tight, and also that he has enough room underneath to do his business if necessary. It's great if you an actually try the clothing on your dog before you buy it, that way you can be sure it fits him well and has no loose parts that may catch on trees and furniture.

Finding Pomeranian clothes that suit your dogs needs should be easy as there is a large variety available both on and offline..

Lee Dobbins writes for The Pomeranian Pages where you can learn more about caring for your pom and how to pick Pomeranian clothes.

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Labels: Dog Breeding

By Andrew Strachan

Crate training can be considered to be one of the best (and quickest) ways to train your dog.

One of the most important and powerful tools when training your puppy or dog, is to reinforce good behavior with praise and reward. This inevitably means that you will have to be present when this good behavior takes place. It is vital that the puppy associates the action with the reward. This can be problematic when you have to be out of the house for several hours and your puppy is in the house. Any good behavior goes unnoticed and any bad behavior continues un-checked.

The usual training method is to restrict your puppy’s movements in the house. Ensure that your puppy has one room to itself. That way you can lay down paper or other absorbent material and if your puppy eliminates, it is in a restricted area. There is a big problem with this though. Your puppy is learning that it can eliminate INSIDE the house every time you go out. This is where crate training comes in.

What Is Crate Training?

Crate training takes advantage of one very useful instinctive behavior of your dog. Your puppy or dog WILL NOT eliminate in its own personal space if it can be avoided. This means that if you can temporarily restrict your dogs' personal space, then it will hold on longer when it wants to eliminate. This is the point at which you take your dog outside on a leash and allow it to eliminate outside in your presence. Giving you the chance to heap a lot of praise on your puppy and reward his good behavior. This positive reinforcement teaches your puppy bladder and bowel control as well as setting out an acceptable area that your dog can eliminate.

There is a BIG difference between crate training and just using a crate to restrict your dog while you are not home.

You should only ever use a crate when you can be sure that you are going to be home for the duration of the confinement. You should never leave your puppy in the crate for more than two hours at a time. After this time, you should take your puppy outside and check whether it wants to eliminate. NEVER put your puppy in its crate and then leave the house.

If you abuse the use of the crate, your puppy will eventually eliminate in it's own crate, This will not only undo all the hard work that you have put into training your puppy, but it will be unhygienic and distressing for your puppy.

Every time you take your puppy out to eliminate, if she does so, it is time for lots of praise and a treat. You can also give her the run of the house until her bladder and bowels fill up again. This is approximately every 45 minutes to an hour in a young puppy. If she fails to eliminate, put her back into the crate but check every hour whether she wants to go again.

You will soon learn the habits of your puppy and will be able to put her in her crate for the correct duration. If you do ever find that your puppy has eliminated inside your house, do not punish her. This is YOUR mistake for not correctly judging when she is next ready to go. Just make a note of the time and adjust as necessary.

Article by Andrew Strachan. Find out more about dog behavior training and types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com

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Labels: Dog Training

By Andrew Strachan

As any dog owner will tell you, dogs can be very complex animals and can have very individual personalities. This can manifest itself as bad behavior at times but there is no reason why good behavior training cannot put your dog onto the right path to being the perfect pooch.

Before considering training your dog to improve its behavior, it is important to look into the background of what makes your dog...... a dog.

It is estimated that in the Western world alone, there are probably 800 or so different types of dog breeds. Although it could be said that the difference between some of these breeds is often very little, it is still an amazing concept from a human perspective. Especially when you consider that all modern dogs are believed to have come from one single mating pair of wolves thousands of years ago. Who could imagine that a St.Bernard could be related to a Chihuahua!

Dogs are predatory animals.

Now this doesn't mean that your dog will try and hunt every moving thing but the instinctive desire to hunt is always in them. This behavior is originally why humans and dogs became such close partners in the first place.

Understanding this behavior is the key to successfully training your dog.

Acute hearing enables them to pinpoint potential prey and coupled with their other abilities they can be very successful predatory animals.

The field of vision for a domestic dog is much better than that of humans - 180 to 270 degrees. If you compare this to a human who has a 100 to 150 degree field of vision it's easy to see why a dog can easily track prey.

Let's not forget a dogs amazing sense of smell. A dog is capable of detecting scents 100 million times smaller than that which a human can sense. A Golden Retriever can smell its prey through feet of frozen snow and a foot of frozen earth!

That is why your family dog will often exhibit predatory behavior.

Dogs will exhibit very social behavior.

Although everybody knows that dogs are very sociable animals, it is often overlooked by dog owners. This can lead to problems in the way they behave and can cause disobedience and bad behavior. People will often lock a dog away in a pen or on a leash outside for long periods of time. This isolation can often lead to fear, aggression, over excitement etc. Dogs need companionship in order to maintain healthy behavior.

Prolonged periods devoid of social contact with another dog, human or even a cat will harm the dogs’ personality and ultimately lead to unwanted behavior.

Dogs love to explore.

An adult dog is said to have a similar mental level of a two year old human. Similarly, dogs will learn through exploration of their environment. Unfortunately, what a dog perceives as exploration, you may perceive as chewing the furniture, eating shoes etc.

A quick and effective way to avoid this is to ensure that your dogs’ toys and chews etc are distinctly different from any human toysshoes etc. that may be lying around. Providing rawhide bones as oppose to rubber balls and plastic toys is one option.

Adequate behavior training for your dog will overcome these issues and lead to a better relationship between you both. Your will get a long lasting trusting relationship that you can both enjoy.

Article by Andrew Strachan. Find out more about dog behavior training and types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com

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Labels: Dog Training

By Andrew Strachan

Electronic dog fences are intended to be used as a control device for your dog. They are designed to keep your dog within a specified area, either by means of an electric shock, unpleasant noise or offensive smell. Electronic dog fences can be a mixed blessing though. Not only for humans but for your dog also.

The electronic dog fence will consist of a wire that is buried in the ground around the perimeter of where you want to allow your dog freedom. When the dog strays too close to this wire, a signal is sent to the dogs' collar that will in response, administer the deterrent to your dog. This has the effect of discouraging your dog from straying over the boundary.

Although electronic dog fences can be quite expensive, they have the big advantage that they are invisible to the eye. This means that they can be used in areas where front or back fences are prohibited. So for somebody without a yard or area where their dog can be kept, they can be very advantageous.

Unfortunately, they have their disadvantages too.

The first problem is that most dog owners will use the electronic dog fence as a substitute for proper dog training. It is a quick fix and can be very frightening for a dog that is not used to the collar. Most dogs will not immediately associate the shock, or noise from the collar with the fact that it has strayed outside of its boundaries. For nervous dogs especially, or dogs that have been adopted from rescue homes and may have history of abuse, this type of 'punishment control' can be very disturbing for the dog.

Also, if your dog is not correctly trained to understand where its boundaries are, what happens if the system fails? Electronic dog fences can be shorted (by lightening or careless digging). Your dog is then free to go wherever it pleases. Additionally, a very active dog (or an un-neutered dog finding a female) may stray over the border and then have trouble returning home due to the repeated shocks he might be getting.

Above all of these problems, it should be considered whether giving your dog electric shocks as a method of training is an acceptable method of dog training in the first place.

With all that said, your decision whether to get an electric dog fence should be weighed up against the pros and cons of other types of fence. Small fences can be jumped by larger dogs. Chain link fences can be unsightly and are not allowed in some areas. In some cases, an electronic fence may work out to be your best option.

When it comes to dog fences, there is no 'one size fits all' solution. Consider all of the facts like breed, personality, size, your living circumstances, health of your dog etc. and you can decide if an electronic dog fence is for you (and your dog.)

Article by Andrew Strachan. Find out more about dog behavior training and types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com

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Labels: Dog Training

By Andrew Strachan

When thinking about what type of dog training equipment to get, it is important to consider the difference between dog training and dog control. For example, using hand gestures and reward for a given action by your dog, is classed as training. Whereas the use of choke chains and anti-bark collars, would be considered as a form of control.

Controlling your dog should not be considered a bad thing. Your dog will need to be aware that you are the leader (alpha) in the pack. If you do not adopt this role, you will end up with an unruly, destructive noisy dog that has little respect for you. So a certain level of enforced control is essential.

In the same sense, the alpha male in a pack of wild dogs will take control.

Choke Collars

Choke collars are used to assist you in gaining control of your dog. Some dogs, especially the larger ones can be very assertive when on a leash. Pulling the owner is a big problem and can be dangerous. Certain breeds are also known to be slow learners. For dogs that do not respond well to leather or nylon collars, a metal choke collar can provide that extra bit of discouragement.

The big problem with the use of a choke collar as a form of dog training equipment is that they can easily be used the wrong way which can be dangerous for the dog.

A choke collar fits only one way. If fitted the wrong way around, it can cause problems such as pinching and even suffocation.

Also a collar of incorrect length will cause problems. As a general rule, the collar should be two inches longer than the circumference of the dogs’ neck.

Prong Collars

Prong collars can look like a form of medieval torture machine for a dog but thankfully they are a lot less dangerous than they first appear. That said, it is our view that these collars have little to no positive value as a piece of dog training equipment. The only good aspect of these collars is that they can only be closed down so far.

An animal that has got to the stage where a prong collar is needed is in need of more than a bit of poking and choking. They will need a committed dog behavior training regime designed to correct the behavioral problems of the dog.

Halter Collars

A Halter collar is a harness type collar that wraps around the dogs face and neck without interfering with drinking or panting. This type of collar can give extra control but they have a BIG down side. They do not prevent biting or grasping and therefore have limited use.

It may be preferable to go for a good leash and collar or a chest halter. Both of these will provide equivalent forms of control.

No Bark Collars

'No bark' collars are designed to help with dogs that tend to bark for long periods of time and often for no reason.

They come in two main types. Noise collars and Shock collars.

Noise collars produce an unpleasant sound that distracts the dog from its barking.

Shock collars produce an electric shock that is produced in response to the noise of the barking.

Using some forms of dog training equipment as a quick fix is very tempting to most dog owners. The problem is, they become a fix-all substitute for longer term training which is more beneficial to both dog and owner.

Taking the time to learn more about your dog and how you can both work together will produce a happier dog and a happier owner!

Article by Andrew Strachan. Find out more about dog behavior training and types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com

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Labels: Dog Training

By Andrew Strachan

If you were to ask what the quickest and easiest method was for teaching your dog a new trick, the answer would be - work with the nature of your dog, not against it. What we mean here is that you should look at what tricks your dog naturally does, or look for a dog trick 'in the making', like naturally putting a paw on your knee or rolling over etc.

If you choose a dog trick that naturally occurs, half your work is already done. Your dog will probably be eager to please as most dogs are and should therefore respond well to rewards. You can build on this to reinforce your dogs’ natural ability rather than starting an entirely new dog trick.

Which Dog Trick Do You Choose?

Observe your dog and watch out for a potential dog trick. This may be something as simple as crawling along on its belly to, catching a Frisbee or a ball. As soon as your dog 'performs' one of it's natural tricks, associate it with a hand gesture or verbal command and then reward your dog with its favorite treat. It won't be long before your dog learns the procedure.

Eventually over time, you will be able to cut back on the rewards until your dog will perform the dog trick with just the hand gesture or verbal command such as 'fetch' or 'go get'. Now that the new trick is firmly lodged in your dogs' head, you will be able to build on it.

For example, if you have taught your dog to catch a Frisbee, how about increasing the distance that he will catch it from, or throw two Frisbee’s one after the other. Get your dog to catch one, drop it and then run for the other!

Popular Dog Tricks

Some of the most popular dog tricks are 'sit' and 'come' etc. These are pretty simple to teach. To teach your dog to sit, with your dog standing firmly press on its hind quarters directly above it's back legs whilst at the same time saying the word 'Sit' quite assertively but NOT shouting. Most dogs will naturally sit. At this point, heap lots of praise on your dog and then give them a treat. After several repetitions of this, your dog will soon learn what 'Sit' means. Do not try this on older dogs that may have arthritis in their hind legs or hips.

If your dog does not sit when told, NEVER scold it. Just ignore it and try again another time. Otherwise your dog will associate 'Sit' with being scolded. If your dog persistently fails to sit, try another trick.

Each dog has different talents.

To teach your dog to come is simple. When your dog is at a distance, say loudly but not shouting 'Come here' or 'Come'. This will usually get your dogs' attention. Repeat the statement 'Come on', 'Come here'. Most untrained dogs at this point will probably look away and carry on with whatever it was doing.

At this point walk up to your dog but keep within around 5 feet away. Say 'Come here'. Your dog will probably now come to you. When he does, it's time for a lot of praise and a treat. Repeat this but increase the distance that your dog has to walk towards you more each time. Eventually, your dog will instinctively come to you whenever it hears you shout 'Come here', from any distance.

Again, if your dog fails to come to you, DO NOT scold it. I once got asked "Why won't my dog come to me?” On further investigation I found out that every time the dog ran away and then failed to come back, the owners would scold the dog when they got hold of it again. WRONG! The dog started to associate the command 'Come here' with a scolding. Totally the opposite. No wonder the dog failed to come to command.

Another dog trick you can try is 'Paw'. This involves saying 'Paw' then gently lifting the dogs paw with your hand followed by lots of praisetreats. After a while saying 'Paw' will cause your dog to raise its paw. You can extend this to two paws where your dog 'Sits pretty' on its haunches.

Another trick is 'Speak'. This usually works best with a naturally vocal dog. Every time your dog howls or makes a funny noise, praise the dog whilst saying the command ' Speak'. Eventually your dog will speak on command.

Teaching your dog a new dog trick should be a fun experience for both of you, and will give you lots of quality time together. Enjoy!

Article by Andrew Strachan. Find out more about dog behavior training and types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com

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Labels: Dog Training

By M. Bruno

The dog food industry announced in a recent statement that labeling on pet and dog food is actually better than labeling requirements on food for human consumption.

This would be the best news that we have heard since the beginning of the dog food recall that has claimed the lives of thousands of dogs, while an ever growing number of dogs continue to suffer from kidney failure after eating contaminated dog food.

Let’s take a look at how the pet dog food industry supports this claim.

The dog food industry has the option of including ingredients that they deem safe and nutritious in the dog food that they produce and sell.

Some of those ingredients are:

Dead, dying, diseased and downed animals. Well, this confuses me a bit. I don’t know of any regulation permitting the inclusion of these unsuitable proteins on any human food label. The fact is that these 4Ds, can not be used in human food but are used by dog food manufacturers. Ever see those listed on a dog food label?

Rendered animal tissue, such as acquired from the remains of euthanized dogs and pets from animal shelters are used in some dog food products. Hmmm, I never saw any of that on an approved for human consumption food label.

Dog food labels often have statements that claim the dog food is complete, balanced and safe. This would be almost an impossible claim to have approved by the FDA for food destined for human consumption. But dog food manufacturers make this claim as almost as a matter of course. Just check their label.

The dog food industry is fond of pointing to the oversight of the industry by AAFCO the, Association Of American Feed Control Officials. AAFCO has no real regulatory authority and the testing of dog food is little more than a joke.

Here’s a synopsis of AAFCO testing requirements

• Eight dogs more than a year old must participate

• The dogs must be of normal health and weight

• Blood tests are taken at the inception and conclusion of the test

• No dog (of the eight participants) die or are taken off the dog food because of nutritional problems.

Results of a Successful Dog Food Tests

• At least six of the original eight dogs that began the test must complete it.

• During the test, none of the dogs used are to die or be removed because of nutritional causes.

• Six of the eight dogs starting must finish the test.

AAFCO, with no real authority conducts a test on all of eight dogs. If none die or are excluded and a very basic blood test is passed, that dog food gets the green light.

Are you willing to risk your dog’s life on the claims made by the dog food industry? Do you think that a test which will determine the safety and nutrient values of your dog food is adequate when the test involves only eight dogs?

Do you believe that the FDA should be more directly involved or is the oversight of a group such as AAFCO sufficient to assure the health and safety of your dog?

What is happening in the dog food recall is the product of the claims and performance of the dog food industry, AAFCO, and their marketing and business efforts.

Before chancing our dog’s life to the claims of dog food manufacturers that their labeling requirements are safe, that their dog food is safe, and that their industry is regulated, become an informed consumer. Spend some time and learn what your dog food label really says at http://www.fda.gov/cvm/petlabel.htm

Dog food companies claim that the products they manufacturer are safe.

Sadly, the recent dog food recall and recalls prior to this one suggest otherwise. The dog food industry has in many cases been untruthful in their sales pitch, unsavory in their ethics and have produced a product that in many instances belong in a landfill, not eaten by your dog. A few good apples exist in the commercial dog food world. Make absolutely sure that your dog food comes from one of the good guys or consider making your own dog food at home

By doing so you can make sure that the food you give your dog is truly healthy and not a potential death sentence.

Do you buy your dog food at a supermarket? Pet superstore? Online? Is it healthy and safe? Find out what’s the dog food you feed your pooch at http://www.dogs-4life.com/dog-food-that-kills.html This article may be reproduced with the author's link

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Labels: Dog Food